How to Spec a Garment Using Points of Measure (POM) for Fashion and Apparel

POMs or Points of Measure indicate how and where you want your garment to be measured. When sending out an order to your suppliers, this is incredibly important. They are going to ensure your piece looks exactly how you envisioned it and make the whole production process run a little smoother. Making sure you communicate the right measurements will also impact the fit of your garment and, in turn, how it sells. Finally, points of measure are great because they translate fashion into a diagram. That means that non-apparel experts will still be able to control the quality and conformity of a garment.

To do all of that, you need to make sure you know how to spec a garment, a task that might look simple but turns out to be quite daunting. We’re here to share with you the basic points of measure for apparel and everything you need to know and remember when taking specs of a garment. Let’s begin!

Your indications about measurements will go in your TechPack and, more specifically in the

• POM page
• How to measure guide

POM Page

The POM (Point of Measure) page is a list of all the points where you want the manufacturer to take measurements to make the garment exactly how you want, and they illustrate your expectations for different sizes.

In particular, a POM page needs to include

Description of POMs and POM Codes

A code that refers to the point of measure you are considering. In your tech pack you can create your own code, but make sure it’s easy to understand for both you and everyone else who might have to use it.

When creating your code, you need to include:

POM code

Either a number or a letter, it’s practical to refer to POM in the ‘How to Measure’ guide.

POM name

Although we’re all about creativity, keep in mind that the functionality of a POM is to create something that’s universally understood. Stick with the basics such as High Point Shoulder or Center Front.

Type of measure

POM can be full measures or half measures. Half measures usually refer to circumferences. You can also have circumference measurements, which mostly refer to woven spec, whereas knit specs are taken laying flat.

Type of measurement

Width, length, height.

Starting location and stopping location

The most common types of POMs

Tops

HPS – High Point Shoulder: the highest point of the shoulder, measure where the shoulder seam meets the neckline.

Neck Opening: measure from neck seam to neck seam at HPS.

Shoulder Drop: measure from HPS to shoulder seam at armhole.Armhole: measure from where the bottom armhole meets the seam to where the top meets the shoulder seam. It can be measured straight or curved.

Bicep: measure 1” below the armhole, perpendicular to the length of the sleeve.

Sleeve Length: measure from the shoulder seam to the sleeve opening.

Across Chest: measure horizontally 1” below the armhole, from side to side.

Waist: measure horizontally from side to side at a specific distance from HPS.

Hip: measure horizontally from side to side at a specific distance from HPS.

Bottom Sweep: measure horizontally straight across from side to side at the bottom of the garment.

CB – Center Back: measure vertically down the center of the back of the garment.

CF – Center Front: measure vertically down the center of the front of the garment.

Body Length: measure from HPS to Bottom Sweep.

SS – Side Seam: measure vertically from the bottom of the armhole to the bottom hem.

Bottoms

Upper Waist: measure horizontally straight across from edge to edge of the waistband.

Lower Hip: measure three Points of Measure below the top waist at the sides and Center Front.

Front Rise: measure vertically from the crotch seam to the top of the front waistband.

Back Rise: measure vertically from the crotch seam to the top of the back waistband.

Thigh: measure horizontally 1“ below the crotch seam, perpendicular to the pant leg.

Knee Opening: measure horizontally at a certain distance below the crotch seam, perpendicular to the pant leg.

Leg Opening: measure horizontally straight across the bottom edge of the leg opening.

Inseam: measure vertically from the crotch seam to the leg opening.

Grade rules

Grade rules indicate the amount of change between each size. They need to be specific for each part of the garment. How much do you want the sleeve to grow between S and M? And the waistband?

You can find professional-grade rules that follow human anatomy, or simply look at what the industry is already doing. Keep in mind that grade rules are your way to control how you want different sizes to fit and are a crucial part of your aesthetic.

Tolerance

The amount above or below your spec that you are willing to accept from the factory. It is indicated with a +/- compared to the spec given. Production tolerance and sampling tolerance can differ, and there’s a tendency of being more strict and precise for sampling. Remember that this isn’t a one-way street, and manufacturers also have to accept the tolerance you propose.

How to measure guide

The guide is a packet of images or sketches to shows where to measure the garments based on POMs. If you want, you can also take a photo of the garment with measurement tape. You are supposed to include the POM codes you’ve created to show exactly how you want them to be interpreted.

For good measure

Tips and tricks to master your POMs!

• Sketch several POMs for every size to ensure the grading is correct
• Only give the manufacturers the specs necessary to create a garment: they need to have enough wiggle room to adjust the fit, weight, and pattern of the garment
• Don’t overcomplicate it and make sure your POMs aren’t overlapping
• List your POMs in an order that makes sense to you. Maybe you want to start with t-shirts and move over to trousers?
• Any extra information that can’t be included in the spec list should be detailed in the How to Measure guide